Wednesday, August 13

Slow Boat down the Mekong River

(see map) mike: In Chiang Mai we debated over drinks whether to fly (fast & expensive) or boat (slow & cheap) eastward to Luang Prabang in Laos. Travel reports on the two day slow boat down the Mekong River were mixed ranging from fantastic to a terrible butt bruising experience. We opted for the slow option since we had the time and hoped the scenery and experience would outweigh the inconvenience. Our bus from Chiang Mai towards Laos had a strange layout with two seats on one side and three on the other. I had the misfortune of being stuffed between Trin and the only heavy Thai woman I have encountered.

Trin departing from the small town of Chiang Khong in Thailand to the much less developed Huay Xai on the Laos side where we stayed the night.

The following morning at the boat "dock" getting ready to load. Actually the dock consisted of a muddy slope and wood plank, but it did the trick. Squeezing out (imagine a sardine can) on departure consisted of men placing tree branches between the boat roofs and shouting a lot to help roll out of the harbor. After some loud creaking and crunching of wood, we were off.

Travel Agenda:
Day 1 - 6 hours on boat, stop in town of Pak Beng for night

Day 2 - 7 hours on boat, land at Luang Prabang

I'd describe the boat as a floating single wide trailer. It had twenty something old airplane seats plus wooden benches. Luckily, we scored two of what we called the "first class" airline ones.

Our conversations with neighbors got off to a rough start. A Swiss couple was chatting with a Canadian couple behind us about the USA. Canada commented how "the USA would defend them in any military dispute". Ok, maybe. From there it spiraled into a conversation about how their countries no longer "liked the USA." Maybe it would be more accurate to state "We do not like the foreign policy of the current administration" and even though many (or most?) Americans feel the same way, I couldn't help but be offended. I tried in vain to think up a witty comment that could immediately change their perspective but was at a loss for words. They received our collective sneer instead.

We passed the time with a combination of reading, napping, and enjoying the passing forest and mountain scenery.

One alternative to the slow boat is this appropriately named fast boat which does the same trip in six hours. Considering how much debris is floating along, it is said to be considerably more dangerous, but it looked like a lot of fun.

Single wide parked next to a double wide.

Due to heavy rains, the Mekong was overflowing its banks into each village we passed.

Ultimately we were happy with the decision, it was a memorable voyage.

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